Author: hollanderames

I posted this yesterday on my socials (when we started this trip, I thought I’d be writing way more here, but the bad internet at our last place made it much easier to just throw something up in a Facebook post instead! Trying to get into the habit of keeping this updated so I have one place to look back on our record of this year!!):

Say hello to our “Mayan Menorahs”— not anything particularly Mayan about them, except that we’ve been learning about traditional Mayan weaving, and how the patterns and colors have significance and meaning. And the boys made the connection that the Hanukkah story was happening right around the same time as the Classical period of Mayan history. So cool! And both civilizations exist to this day and are proud of their traditions. Even cooler!
Since we didn’t think to pack a menorah for this trip, we’ll be coloring in a light every night here.
Added some brilliant words by Liora RH.
May the whole world be allowed peace and light and safety and justice. And great tunes! (Just discovered an AMAZING playlist of Sephardic tunes for Hanukkah 🤘)
🕊️

I’m in a cab on my way to the recording studio, where I’ll record, god willing, the Songs and Poems. I don’t know the engineer, I don’t know the studio. But I’m in such a beautiful city, on such a beautiful day, it’s hard to have any serious anxiety about it. But it is a huge undertaking so I have been super conscious of how I got my day started, mental and physical prep, packing, etc. We’ve extended our stay here in Mérida by a few days instead of the trip to Belize we’d planned. The boys love it here! It’s funny to me; we spent a few days an hour north, at Sisal, a small beach town on the Gulf. To me it was absolute heaven. The Airbnb was perfect, it opened up right onto the beach. The seabirds were unreal. Just a magical place. But on our second night, the boys were like, “when are we going back to Mérida?!” So, since we’ll be doing a lot of shorter stays and country-hopping in Europe, our next leg, we thought “let’s save some $ for that, chill here.” Plus since I’ve had this crazy residency, I haven’t had as much time to just explore the surroundings, so I’m looking forward to more of that. And the extra time means I can give the violists I’ve met and connected with at the UNAY a Bach class next week. When I wrote to them asking if they’d like one (one of them had asked me if I could hear his Bach, and I’d heard a few of them fiddling through different Bachs, so I thought, let’s do a class), they immediately responded with dancing cat and cute frog GIFs. I’ve found my people.

Just. So. Tired. Today. Last night I played the recital I’ve been preparing for MONTHS for. First time playing Philip Glass’ Songs and Poems, as well as first outing of Jessie Montgomery’a Rhapsody #2. Both of those pieces have been technique-expanding pieces for me, just absolutely pushing me to my limit. I had four local violists, all current or recent grads of the UNAY (universidad de Artes de Yucatán), join me for two ensemble pieces too, and the rehearsal process leading up to that was fun and only grueling because my Spanish wasn’t up to the task! The recital was at a beautiful gallery called Casa Gemela, and there was a nice crowd, plus my family being there meant a lot. But as well as it all went (with plenty of flubbed notes, to be sure!), I’m very much feeling how taxing putting it together was, and after we went for a walk into the center of town and played some soccer in a park, and after I practiced for the NEXT big project— playing Stamitz concerto and a new piece written for me by Judith Alejandra Gonzalez Benitez next Sunday— I passed out for an hour and a half this afternoon.

We leave Puerto Escondido tonight on an overnight bus back to Oaxaca. I got the date/day wrong and this whole time thought we left TOMORROW night. Thank goodness I caught it this AM,, but we’d promised the boys a “sleepover party” tonight- letting them stay in the separate bedroom that was supposed to be Griffin’s, though ultimately he didn’t like sleeping apart from the family and slept on the living room couch instead. We were gonna get them a 6-pack of soda, and let them stay up as late as they wanted to together. Needless to say, everyone’s disappointed. This place has been so magical: from the beach five minutes away, to the pool ten steps outside our door, plus the super friendly neighbors on all sides, including one who gave us swordfish from his fishing trip. It’s also the last stop of our trip before I have the intense residency with all the concerts and rehearsals and engagements in Mérida. I’ve been sick a lot here, though, so I’m really hoping that at least that part improves, because it really feels bad to leave your partner to the homeschooling all by themselves. I will be doing that to him a lot at the next stop, so I’m in particular feeling it here.

I forgot to take note of an incredible experience I had our last morning in Ciudad Oaxaca. I went to an outdoor Zumba class with Adictos de Zumba Oaxaca, which I HIGHLY recommend anyone traveling to this beautiful city join before they go, so they can join in on some of the funnest, most energetic outdoor free dancing I’ve ever been party to. This one was a benefit for Breast Cancer Research, and most of the dancers (who were almost all ladies) wore pink. Sadly, I packed not a thread of pink clothing for this trip, so I was in blah black. They introduced three instructors at the start, and I figured each would do, like, a third of their normal class. After about an hour of one, who was SO high energy and fabulous, the next one took over, and proceeded to lead what felt like another normal-length Zumba class. I had to go after an hour and a half; I’d dragged along with me a giant bag including books and the rug we’d bought at Teotitlán del Valle to send home, and proceeded to have, after the class, the polar opposite of a fun Zumba experience which included trekking back and forth between the post office and various convenience stores to try to get one of them to sell me a potato chip box. Fun times. Anyway, the class seemed to be continuing on for infinite minutes and steps and energy I have no idea how these women had, but I was sorry to leave. This is the only photo I got before it started, of the setup at the El Llano park.

Sadly, the timing of our travels meant we were gone from Ciudad Oaxaca for Dia de Los Muertos, which is famously excellent there. Here in Puerto, all we saw was people’s home altars. Aryeh and I had a long talk last night about who we’d honor and how, if we’d thought to make our own altar (doh!! 🤦🏻‍♀️ next year)— for Uncle Jay and Aunt Patricia, for my friend Sara Booth. Aryeh said he’d have vanilla ice cream for Aunt Patricia because his first memory of her is of her offering him either mint chocolate chip or vanilla, and he chose the latter. It really is such a beautiful family holiday idea, and I think we will take back our own version of it.

One thing that’s been a feature of this trip for me is the way technology keeps me looped into my very scattershot, freelance musical life. I’ve applied for two grants, one International Viola Congress, and one remote job since heading out on this journey, and am waiting on all of them. Being on such an epic journey gives perspective and makes waiting on these things less stressful, but I do sometimes wonder if I should have just totally disconnected…?

We took an overnight bus to Puerto Escondido, and it’s now our first day of homeschooling at the beach! We’re going to start with half-days so we can maximize ocean time. The gringo scene here is even more extreme than in Oaxaca city, with all the surfers and MTV-reality-show-looking Europeans. When did this happen here? The wedding Christopher and I met at was 18 years ago, and we drove to this beautiful, sleepy coast in ramshackle vans, to find a pristine, truly “hidden port” (what Puerto Escondido means in Spanish). It’s not Cancun level yet, but it’s pretty nuts. The funniest part for me is my gringo kids, who keep saying loudly, in front of other gringos, “There are so many gringos here!!!”

Our last two days in Oaxaca (the city; we travel to the Pacific coast of Oaxaca on Sunday). I have to take note of some of the amazing food we’ve had here. Best breakfast: the huevos en cazuela at Marco Polo (where I had an incredible seafood dinner last time I was here). Best lunch: El Asador Vasco, a super fancy, old-fashioned Basque restaurant overlooking the Zócalo. Also great for dinner, we just had a phenomenal Sunday lunch there. We got there right as it opened at 1:30, and were the only diners for a while. Such a lovely, classy spot. Best dinner: Humito Cocina y Foro– this is the place right near our Airbnb on Panorámica Fortín, and has music 4 nights a week for 120 pesos (like $7!) and the food and drinks are so good!! We went for breakfast, too, but all our food was covered in chapulines (grasshoppers) without being warned in advance by the menu! We wimpy gringos were not pleased. Plus my chilaquiles were lukewarm. But definitely go there for dinner or just drinks and/or dessert while you enjoy the music. Such a magical spot. We went to the Mercado Central de Abastos to visit the famous memelas of Doña Vale, as seen on TWO Netflix food shows. But after I waited for a long time, an Australian camera crew cut me in line and Doña Vale very happily started performing for them, making them their own memelas. I was so pissed I walked out. Got a great jugo verde at the stall next to her, and the boys all had tacos. The market is amazing for the sights and the food, whether or not you visit a Netflix-famous spot.

And we HAVE to shout out Los Tacos de Esme, the tiny hole-in-the-wall spot that we’ve gotten Tlayudas and tacos at more times than we can name. A very sweet husband and wife run it, and their 4-year-old daughter, after whom the spot is named, though she’ll introduce herself to you as Lisette, will possibly make your whole family a second dinner out of Play-Doh. This place was right at the foot of the insanely steep stairs we’d have to walk to get to our street, so a bag of tacos Al pastor and de bistec, and tlayudas (I got the veggie, C got the al pastor) with salsas and avocados and limes to put on top, was just the thing to bring home and eat after all that climbing.

This is supposed to be a page for keeping track of our travels. We’re in Oaxaca now— the city. In 2 weeks, we’ll head to the beach, by Puerto Escondido. This Airbnb we’re in now is built on the hill almost as high as the Guelaguetza Theater, the place where Oaxaca holds its world-famous indigenous and folk dance festival every summer. When Christopher lived in Oaxaca for a year, in the early 90’s, none of this was built up. The theater was so on its own, set apart and above the city, that he thought it was outside the city. Our street is called Panorámica del Fortín, and it is teeming with multilevel houses, hostels, “miscelanea” (bodegas), and a couple restaurants, our favorite of which, Humito, is owned by Lila Downs! (Google her if you don’t know her music). Meanwhile, literally next door to us is a bunch of … dwellings? What do you call houses that aren’t houses, without indoor plumbing, doors or even a front wall? It’s like a 3-story lean-to, each apartment shielded from the driving rain by a blanket hanging on a rope. The family in the apartment closest to us has a brand new baby— like, BRAND NEW, like, I thought s/he was maybe born in the apartment and I was seeing them take them out for their first sunlight! And here we are next door, in all of our privilege, taking a year to just explore the world.

I was thinking of our neighbors as I went on a deep Wikipedia dive into the history of Gaza yesterday AM. I kept seeing it called a “giant, open-air prison.” There is poverty all over the world. Poverty is very, very hard to escape from. Was the former-holder-of-an-Israeli-passport in me apologizing for the blockade of Gaza? Egypt maintains the blockade, too. Hamas didn’t attack them this weekend. Gaza stands as an example of the Occupation to everyone in the world, even though Israel doesn’t exactly “occupy” it; there are no settlements. Having spent considerable time in a West Bank settlement when I lived in Israel, that whole scene really disgusted and infuriated me. I was there in 2005 when Israel “disengaged” from Gaza. I never saw Gaza with my own eyes, whereas the dichotomy, the disjunction of the West Bank towns vs the Israeli “settlements,” which really should be called something much more permanent, with their shopping malls and restaurants and INFRASTRUCTURE… How someone can live in poverty while having to see every day the privilege next door to you, that seems like torture. At least here, we can say buenos días, buenas tardes, etc (the boys are loving how saying hello changes for the time of day), and “¡que lindo bebé!” We’re not separated by checkpoints or bulletproof glass. We can look each other in the eye. Which makes me realize the real torture is the isolation.

One last thing on my mind: a Japanese friend of mine, mom of Aryeh’s friend, asked me what Hebrew school was like, and I told her they learn about holidays, Hebrew letters, songs, etc. I asked her if they were members of a religious community, and she said no, and then hesitated for a moment— “My husband and I, we believe that religion is the reason for all wars, so …” She shrugged.

A friend of mine, talking about the events of this past weekend, wrote, “One thing’s for sure: I stand with atheism.” And it’s true that the extremists on both sides of this— Hamas and the far-right, pro-settler Israeli government— are religious. But my friends in Israel are some of the least religious people I’ve ever known. Judaism is defined in Hebrew as an “am,” meaning nation. For me, the saddest part of Israel/Palestine is that the lesson we should have learned from the Holocaust was not just “never again,” but also: everyone needs a home, and not just land but an actual country that will defend you and your rights. And we Jews should be the first to budge over and make room, especially as there is ample evidence in Israel itself that coexistence is possible. I know I’m writing stuff here that is beyond banal and cliché and heard before. Maybe if I just bang my head against this wall over here, change will happen. Sigh.

I was very much hoping that we’d make it to Israel on this journey, and to that end I’ve been more in touch with friends over there, this last month or so, than I’d been in years. Playing chamber music with people is a sure fire way to build some strong connections, and I’m really thankful for them now, and thinking a lot about my musical family over there.

Some thoughts about traveling and Mexico.

Some folks have asked for “worldschooling” advice.. I don’t really have any yet except: I’m so glad I packed my foldable yoga mat and Brita bottle with water filter. And I’m glad we chose this order for our journey: starting with the country that causes the least amount of jet lag was low-key, unexpectedly brilliant.

What I’ve noticed in Mexico: there’s a shockingly low amount of toxic male energy here. Maybe it’s the fact that the next president is (most likely) going to be a woman. Maybe it’s the fact that we’re in a neighborhood with so many cute couples and young love, maybe it’s the fact that we’re in Frida Kahlo Ground Zero— it just seems like a place where women are objectified less and respected more.

There are also a lot of thoughts in my head about the US being the economic colonizer of Mexico. Coming here with this nasty rhetoric of DeSantis and others saying there’s an “invasion” at the southern border, then seeing how much better healthcare, education, workers rights policies are down here, it feels to me like it’s only a matter of time before the “invasion” heads in the other direction.